
Today I read the article “He Cooks. She Stews. It’s Love” in the New York Times (online edition) and it had me thinking. The premise of the article is that often times a couple will have an Alpha cook and a Beta cook.
We all know what alpha means, its a play off of the concept of the primary or alpha animal in a pack. For example, the alpha female wolf does most of the hunting while the lower cast females care for her offspring and never have any of their own.
Its a simple equation: Alpha = enforced dominance.

The author of this New York Times article, Katherine Wheelock, seems to have bought into this concept and interviews several couples as examples in support of this idea.
Her couples, high speed New Yorkers, married and divorced/separated, are heavily weighted with dysfunction in the kitchen.
Regarding the ideal we are “suppose” to reach for and how we fall short of it, Wheelock writes:
It was a nice fantasy while it lasted: rather than letting the lady of the house bear the constant burden of cooking dinner, the modern couple would share the work. Husbands would take an interest in casseroles. Wives would slap slabs of meat on the grill. They would read cookbooks and watch the Food Network together. The kitchen would be a peaceful domain equally ruled by two people.
For many couples, this never happened. Instead, wedged there in the kitchen together, they fell into a power dynamic just as unequal and emotionally fraught as the arrangement that puts the female half in a frilly apron. Instead of a partnership, some couples say that their relationship in the kitchen more closely resembles a tiny dictatorship.
This sounds so sad to me. I think that this dysfunctional dynamic may be a good barometer for a relationship that is headed in a difficult direction. The article goes on to say:
“If there’s a power struggle, it will come out in cooking together,†said Dr. Marion F. Solomon, a couples therapist in Los Angeles. “If a person feels that they’re not recognized for their abilities in other areas, they can start to resent the partner who takes control in the kitchen.â€
Yikes, thats major life and interpersonal issues being projected onto the act of cooking.
If this happened instead to the act of cleaning toilets or flushing out the gutters or taking out the trash, it would not be so sad.
Cooking and feeding your family is an activity that is fundamental to the family unit. Power play around that is reckless and quite regretable.

So, yeah, the idea of lording it over your partner in the kitchen is loathesome to me. My first reaction was to say “I would never do that and my husband doesnt either”. My husband does most of the cooking because for years I commuted 4 hours a day and by the time I got home every day I simply could not stand up to cook let alone want to cook.
He has always done a wonderful job of whipping together what was available in the fridge and serving it up without it being a major “voila” moment. Our own special sort of discord has always been about the cleaning, ancillary to cooking but also important.
Hey, I never said I was perfect!
In our kitchen, if either of us start a cooking project, like making stock or that night’s supper, the other stays out of the way and leaves it to the initiating party. There is gratitude that food is made and appreciation of it’s value. I think I would be quite miserable if it were all about power and dominance.
How is it for you? I have put up a poll at the bottom of this post.
Vote if you like (its anonymous!) and lets see how others feel about the power in their kitchens.
I suspect that most of us normal-speed foodies are not so parsimonious with our cooking “power” and, lord, who has time for all of that anyways!

Technorati Tags: New York Times, Alpha cook, Beta cook, primary, animal, dominance, Katherine Wheelock, married, kitchen, relationship, dictatorship, power struggle, issues




4 comments for this entry ↓
1 Sally // Feb 19, 2007 at 1:00 pm
Nika - the poll you’ve got at the top of this post as well as the Epicurious Ad is covering up pictures and your writing! Thought you might like to know.
2 Nika // Feb 19, 2007 at 1:13 pm
Sally: Thanks so much! I didnt take the time to check in other browsers. I appreciate your letting me know :-). Am not going to have those inthe sidebar now until I figure out how to circumvent it (they are not worth the time tho!)
3 Barbara // Feb 19, 2007 at 2:25 pm
Nika–I was struck by the dysfunction of it, too, but I also recognized some of my own self in the behaviors ascribed to “alpha cooks.”
However, some of the quotes and humiliating behaviors ascribed to the alphas I found to be distressing and really nasty. And that is what I could not stand–why would anyone feel the need to humiliate someone over their cooking ability or lack thereof?
When one partner actively humiliates another, that is bad news. Seriously bad news, and I cannot help but think that is unacceptable in any aspect of a relationship.
Perhaps I should write yet another post on that aspect of it, but what caught me was the idea that if a man would give control to a woman in the kitchen, she should snap him up immediately. It was such a turnaround from the days of “The Feminine Mystique” that I was fascinated by it, and wondered if there were other alpha cooks who were female in the world, or if it was primarily men.
4 Nika // Feb 19, 2007 at 11:52 pm
Barbara: I agree, it is a turnaround. I think the NYTimes article was sophmoric writing too. I think its likely that it is was rather sensationalist and I bet the couples who were in the article are feeling some remorse at how baldly (badly too) they were portrayed.
As I think on it, I have to say that kitchen dynamics are likely never simple. I always felt welcomed into my mom’s kitchen but shushed out of my grandma’s (on my moms side). My colombian grandma would give you the serious evil eye if you tried to intrude (I always wanted to learn, she just saw a fat kid who she didnt want snacking on the food before supper time). I loved her and loved the food she was making but I could never bridge the barrier, I regret it so much.
When my kids are in the kitchen this is the dynamic: the 10 year old gets cooking lessons and gets quized, gets to help and gets photos taken; my 3 year old gets restrained in a high chair, gets tastes, gets to smell and handle ingredients, gets to peek into pots of cooking food that I bring over to her, and gets to bang on pots and pans; the 4 month old gets to be restrained, gets to watch, gets to smell, gets to touch things like chilly eggs.
I think they get the idea that they are welcome there. If things are hot and heavy (like taking roasts out of the oven) they get shooed out.
My husband high tails it to do something of his own during this time, free brain time, cant blame him!
My husband and I do tag team the cooking. If I start something and the baby needs to be fed and its time to finish the meal, my husband jumps in and I just let it go, not worrying about how he chooses to finish it (might look different from what I thought it was going to be. Just as long as its edible, I dont care! Unless its for food photography, then no one can touch or even look at it *winks*)
Whew .. TMI?
I agree with you completely re: the snapping up bit, so sexist.
You can bet that a man could not have gotten away with writing this article.
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