Essentialism and Authenticity in Food: Molecular Pablum

September 5, 2007 in cooking, Food Science, Molecular Gastronomy, New York Times

flask

(Erlenmeyer flasks from the Argonne National Laboratory glass blowing shop. source)

Today’s article, “The Essence of Nearly Anything, Drop by Limpid Drop“, by Harold McGee in [tag]The New York Times[/tag], has me thinking on what what we might call “[tag]real food[/tag]“, [tag]authenticity[/tag], [tag]essentialism[/tag], and [tag]molecular gastronomy[/tag].

You likely know that [tag]Harold McGee[/tag] is a [tag]food science[/tag] writer who’s book “[tag]On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen[/tag]” is a core primer on [tag]food[/tag] [tag]science[/tag] for non-food scientists.

In this article, McGee talks about a “new” method of making flavored liquids or essences by a “[tag]gelatin clarification[/tag]” [tag]method[/tag].

The basic overview of this method is this:

  • Prepare a liquid from desired food (lobster, peaches, carrots, spirulina, chicken, hog toenails, whale mesentary, simply anything at all)
  • If the liquid was made without bones or some cartilage, add a small amount of gelatin, dissolve
  • [tag]Freeze[/tag] preparation
  • Place frozen block in strainer (with cheese cloth?) in bowl in the fridge
  • Allow [tag]ice[/tag] [tag]crystal[/tag]s to slowly melt over days and release into bowl (be sure to seal up this assembly otherwise it will pick up other odors in the fridge)
  • Use what drips from the [tag]matrix[/tag] (gelatin, fats, proteins, etc) as an [tag]essence[/tag].

What is happening here is that the gelatin forms a matrix or net into which everything is bound. As is the wont with all things fluidic, upon freezing, the water portion of the fluid is excluded from the gelatin matrix as it freezes into crystals, leaving behind particulate matter. Water [tag]soluble[/tag] components travel with the water.

When the frozen block is slowly thawed at temps that are too low for the gelatin and fats to become fluid, the ice crystals melt and water and [tag]water soluble[/tag] fractions drip away from the matrix.

The molecular gastronomists like to call this an “essence”. With this, you have purified the water soluble flavors. You have also left behind [tag]fat soluble[/tag] flavors which can be extraordinary.

The “novelty” here is that the water soluble essence may deliver a different and perhaps more intense flavor because it is no longer combined with what ever flavors may have been in the fat soluble fraction.

Those fats may have served to mask, dampen or modify the water soluble flavors.

Fat and water soluble favors have become uncoupled in an “un-natural” or not naturally occurring way that will usually not be present in [tag]legacy[/tag] preparations, recipes, foods, or cuisines.

These [tag]clarified[/tag] essences have become [tag]faddish[/tag]. (Actually, I think they were “conceived” in such a way that faddism was a foregone conclusion.)

Chefs who strive for “fame” and profit jump on the essence bandwagon and deliver [tag]victual conceits[/tag] such as lamb loin flavored with [tag]pretzel[/tag] [tag]elixir[/tag], a creation by [tag]Wylie Dufresne[/tag] of [tag]WD-50[/tag] in NYC. I have not had this dish but I suppose I would consider trying it if I were in a “gee wiz” mood.

I think I would know I have lost my way if I had to start a $500 meal (gratuity, alcohol, parking, and bathroom usage not included) by signing a non-disclosure agreement, be frisked for a prohibited camera, and eat crappy photos of sushi printed on oddly favored “food product” paper sheets while sniffing aerosolized “ocean” and watching hypodermic needles being used to extrude lyophylized clam deoxyribonucleic acid noodles that are then infused with cotton candy essence, incubated in fluorescein dye and all the lights doused while I am spoon fed the glowing concoction while being irradiated with a UV light by an unpaid intern wearing UV safe goggles and a meat jerky flavored gel bodysuit.

fuorescein

(Fluorescein dye)

I would much prefer to try such a meal prepared by a passionate food hacker (for a modest fee and at an ad hock food hacking party – all in the spirit of fun, experimentation and “science”) than as a status meal in an expensive restaurant served with considerable self-importance.

With respect to “authentic” food and whether pretzel essence infused lamb loin is authentic in any way, I think we need to stick a definition on that word.

From Merriam-Webster Online:

“Main Entry: au·then·tic
Pronunciation: &-'then-tik, o-
Function: adjective
Etymology: Middle English autentik, from Anglo-French, from Late Latin authenticus, from Greek authentikos, from authentEs perpetrator, master, from aut- + -hentEs (akin to Greek anyein to accomplish, Sanskrit sanoti he gains)
1 obsolete : AUTHORITATIVE
2 a : worthy of acceptance or belief as conforming to or based on fact <paints an authentic picture of our society> b : conforming to an original so as to reproduce essential features <an authentic reproduction of a colonial farmhouse> c : made or done the same way as an original <authentic Mexican fare>
3 : not false or imitation : REAL, ACTUAL <based on authentic documents> <an authentic cockney accent>
4 a of a church mode : ranging upward from the keynote — compare PLAGAL 1 b of a cadence : progressing from the dominant chord to the tonic — compare PLAGAL 2
5 : true to one’s own personality, spirit, or character “

Authenticity is not the impetus or motivation in “gee wiz” victual conceit molecular gastronomy. Innovation may be a motivator but I think that the vagaries of ego and business capsize that noble though misplaced ambition.

No, I fear that most of the commercial molecular gastronomy [tag]pablum[/tag] we are “fed” would be better defined as “derivative”:

“Main Entry: 2derivative
Function: adjective
1 : formed by derivation <a derivative word>
2 : made up of or marked by derived elements
3 : lacking originality : BANAL

I would prefer unadorned roasted [tag]marrow[/tag] [tag]bone[/tag]s or a slice of [tag]headcheese[/tag] with a side of just picked [tag]calabash[/tag] tomatoes sprinkled with chunky [tag]sea salt[/tag] to some expensive overwrought pseudo-imaginative and derivative essence delivered with pomp and circumstance.

yawn

(yawn)

Related posts:

Cant stop raving about Tiger Tiger Indian Sauces

September 4, 2007 in chicken, cooking, ingredient, product, review

tiger logo

tiger tiger stuff

I would like to introduce you to a product made by the Tiger Tiger company that I found at my big box grocery store here in [tag]Massachusetts[/tag] (USA) that has wowed me to such a degree that I am actually writing about it here. If you are a regular reader, you would know that I don’t usually do this sort of thing.

I have used several of their Indian Sauces:

  • [tag]Kashmiri[/tag] Mild [tag]Korma[/tag] Sauce
  • [tag] Peshwari[/tag] [tag]Murgh Tikka Masala[/tag]
  • A creamy [tag]butter[/tag] sauce I can not find listed on their site

Tiger Tiger makes much more than these three sauces. They make Thai, Japanese, and Chinese sauces.

Their product range is wide, including:

  • gluten-free noodles and nutty snacks
  • many more coconut, wasabi, rice snacks
  • cooking sauces
  • salad dressings
  • asian dipping dressings and sauces
  • marinades
  • soups
  • various noodles and rices
  • Indian and Thai spices and pastes
  • all sorts of chutneys
  • preserved exotic fruits and vegetables
  • coconut products
  • gift baskets (which they oddly call hampers)

One thing I know about Indian food is that the sauces, which can make or break a recipe, are long labors of love. I do not keep the whole [tag]Indian[/tag] [tag]spice[/tag] arsenal on hand at home so I never cook [tag]India[/tag]n recipes.

These [tag]Tiger Tiger[/tag] [tag]Indian[/tag] sauces taste so fantastic and are so useful to make just about any protein seem like a meal from the finest of restaurants.

If I had known that their product photography was so fantastically woeful, I would have shot the jar before I used it. For the purposes of immediacy, I have put one of their photos of the Kashmiri Mild Korma sauce here.

Tiger Tiger

I am not at all certain what they are thinking using photos like this on the web. You can see from the packaging that they have done a professional job of branding and packaging but it is not well conveyed on their site.

What matters to me is the taste but its hard to blog such substandard hazy fuzzy photos!

The other night, I pulled out the Kashmiri Mild Korma [tag]sauce[/tag] and, while crossing my fingers, poured it over some browned ground turkey. I usually never buy ground poultry but the price was right.

The korma sauce transformed the vague ground turkey into a [tag]resplendent[/tag] delightful sauce that I poured over some [tag]authentic[/tag] [tag]basmati[/tag] rice.

For the basmati [tag]rice[/tag], I bought a tiny package of real basmati rice from [tag]Tilda[/tag].

Visit the Tilda site for sure. Their site is the diametric opposite of the Tiger Tiger site. Its beautiful, functional, evocative.

tilda

Try this link within the Tilda site for some Indian Recipes.

The directions were completely different than regular rice – boil one cup of rice in 6 cups of water for 8-10 minutes and then RINSE with boiling water.

Wild huh?

I let go of my “ingrained” Colombian rice-training and followed the directions to yield knock-out basmati rice.

I apologize for not having photos of any of this but it was night and we ate it so fast, there was no chance to shoot.

Bottom Line:

If you can find the Tiger Tiger products, buy some and try it.

I can see using this with anything from ground beef, pork, poultry, and small pieces of such meats, to tofu.

I am going to get another jar (or 10!) and use it on some cod and also some shrimp.

I just can’t wait!

Let me know if you try it too!

Where to buy online:

Coco-nuts for fried squash blossoms

August 21, 2007 in cooking, deep fry, Food Porn, Gardening, Local Food, vegetable

Fried Squash Blossoms

It seems to be the [tag]nature[/tag] of [tag]pumpkin[/tag]s and [tag]squash[/tag] and that sort of plant to grow abundant vines and millions of tall stalks with [tag]blossom[/tag]s bursting forth at the ends. Without looking up some resource on the physiology and morphology of these types of plants, I am guessing that these tall blossoms, that never turn into something like a squash, [tag]zucchini[/tag], or pumpkin, are the “boy” parts, releasing pollen.

These blossoms are constantly visited by [tag]bee[/tag]s which turn a sunny orange-y yellow from their visits into the [tag]pollen[/tag] laden blossom interiors. You can stand in a patch of these plants, surrounded by MANY buzzing bees and not fear a sting. They are pollen-[tag]besotted[/tag] little fuzzy things not unlike the [tag]salmon[/tag] obsessed [tag]grizzlies[/tag] in the [tag]Kenai[/tag] in [tag]Alaska[/tag].

I have been mostly enjoying the bee circus without much thought for the blossoms until Curt of [tag]Bucky’s BBQ and Bread Blog[/tag] suggested that I pick them and [tag]fry[/tag] them up. I filed that away in the virtual recipe box (the brain) with a thought of getting around to it before the blossoms were all spent.

When one of my [tag]beefsteak[/tag] [tag]tomato[/tag]es fell early and green I decided it was time to make some [tag]fried green tomatoes[/tag] and s[tag]quash blossoms[/tag]!

Recently, I have been reading “[tag]Nourishing Traditions: The Cookbook that Challenges Politically Correct Nutrition and the Diet Dictocrats[/tag]” by [tag]Sally Fallon[/tag], a book that helps you understand just how bad [tag]transfat[/tag]s and vegetable oils are once used for cooking. A good alternative is [tag]organic[/tag] [tag]coconut oil[/tag], which has a very high burning point. One wants to use only these sorts of fats in high temperature cooking because oils like [tag]canola[/tag] and [tag]corn[/tag] and such will break down and form all manner of [tag]DNA[/tag] chewing free radicals.

I can not recommend this book highly enough.

Finding organic [tag]coconut[/tag] [tag]oil[/tag] can be hard and once you do, it will make your eyes water due to the expense. Why organic? High throughput (industrial) methods of preparing coconut oil uses nasty organic solvents (organic as in chemistry) that remain [tag]partitioned[/tag] into or “stuck” in the coconut oil, no matter how “pure” the manufacturer claims it is.

I went out to the [tag]garden[/tag] and harvested [tag]squash[/tag], [tag]zucchini[/tag], green and [tag]lemon cucumbers[/tag], and blossoms from spaghetti squash, pumpkins, and zucchinis. I had to evict quite a few bees and other nectar-loving bugs. One or two bumblebees put up quite a fight.

I will write about the [tag]cucumber[/tag]s I made into lacto-fermented [tag]pickle[/tag]s in a while, once they have had some time to set up and I can try them (and shoot them).

I pulled out my [tag]Japanese[/tag] [tag]tempura[/tag] [tag]batter[/tag] (instructions all in Japanese so I just use 1 cup ice water to 1 cup mix), made it up and stuck it in the freezer to cool (with a few ice cubes in it too). I also used [tag]panko[/tag] crumbs.

I cut the green base off the bottom of the squash blossoms and double checked for occupants. I didn’t wash them, didn’t seem the right thing to do.

I sliced the tomato, zucchini, and [tag]scallopini squash[/tag] into 1/4 inch slices, dipped them and the blossoms in the cold tempura batter and then the crumbs and then fried in a cast iron pan with a 1/8 inch layer of medium hot coconut oil.

This slideshow will give you a sense for that process.


Once cooked, I removed them from the oil and salted them. Anything [tag]fried[/tag] is fantastic but if its fried in coconut oil? Oh my goodness, it is fantastically delicious, miles and miles better than any fried item I have tasted before.

Give it coconut oil a try, you will not be sorry. Munch on your fried blossoms as you read your new copy of Nourishing Traditions.

An improbable meat nirvana in a BBQ wasteland

August 5, 2007 in BBQ, beef, cooking, Food Porn, grilling, interview, pork


(A photographic collage of the scenes in and around the B.T. Smokehouse)

Today I am going to share an interview I had with [tag]Brian Treitman[/tag], a [tag]CIA[/tag] trained [tag]chef[/tag] who has started a Southern Style BBQ place, called B.T’s Smokehouse. He has set this mobile BBQ joint up in the most improbable place, in the parking lot of a seasonal campground at the side of a road here in sleepy south central Massachusetts.

When I noticed the sign for his mobile smoker and food stand that said “Southern Style BBQ” my first cynical reaction was, “Sure there are rednecks in Massachusetts but does this one know about southern BBQ and what exactly is “southern-style”" and my next thought was, “Ok, now I need some Southern Style BBQ, no matter which state this person might have in mind!” Remember, I have lived in the south a long time and have been exposed to quasi-grilling in the mid-west, the dry rub beef-a-rama that is [tag]Texas[/tag], the hot heaven that is [tag]New Orleans[/tag], and the curious hodgepodge that is [tag]Georgia[/tag].

I am SO guilty of assuming anything and I am so fantastically thankful I stopped in to check it out.

Turns out, this modest shack at the roadside was conceived and is run by a CIA trained chef who just moved back home from his time working in some great kitchens in [tag]Napa Valley[/tag] and [tag]Boston[/tag], MA.

Brian Treitman is immediately likable because he lacks all pretense. You walk up wondering what its all about, this crazy idea of a BBQ shack in rural New England and as soon as you meet Brian its absolutely all about the food. Its a great experience.

In a sneaky, subversive way that I completely approve of, the smoker sits on the back of this custom made smoker-mobile shack thing, pumping out divine BBQ pheromones.

If you stop and get out of your car, you are drawn in like June bugs to a porch light, buying BBQ is a forgone conclusion.

Its primeval, its instinctual, its almost painful if you can’t eat the BBQ right there.

Let me tell you, spending time there doing a photo shoot and chatting without stuffing my mouth full of juicy smoky [tag]pork butt[/tag], [tag]chicken[/tag], and [tag]beef[/tag] [tag]brisket[/tag] hurt me bad.

Needless to say, we had a feast of it when I brought my haul home after the shoot. We ate so much, well, I could smell it’s woodsy, smoky siren lurking about the kitchen for days afterward. We had some extra sauce so we did smell it days afterward as we used it to cook some other things we had at home.

What follows is our interview, conducted both in person and by email. I can not thank Brian enough for his patience in taking time away from his busy day and his expecting wife, who is just too nice to not get to know better some time soon!

I hope you get a sense for how neat these two people are and the hard work it has taken to make this place a reality. If you can make it out to south central MA or if you are coming up here for the [tag]Brimfield Antique Show[/tag] (where he sets up BBQ chiefdom too), DO come on over and visit his smoker-mobile.

You will NOT be disappointed.

In this interview you will learn:

  • How Brian came to be a BBQ dude in a smoker-mobile in the middle of New England
  • His background
  • That he worked for Ming Tsai
  • What its like to work for Ming Tsai
  • A vignette of how 9/11 skewed the world of Ming Tsai, Blue Ginger, and the Food Network
  • What kinds of BBQ Brian does
  • His vision for the smoky future

B.T.'s Smokehouse

Could you tell me about some of the great restaurants that you have cooked at?

My first cooking job was at Bertucci’s in North Andover, MA. This is where I got my first taste of cooking with wood. I was a pizza and pasta cook there in high school. Next I went to [tag]Olympia, WA[/tag], to go to college at The Evergreen State College where I got a degree in Evolutionary Science. I also ran the restaurant there that serviced the housing community. I went to [tag]Evergreen[/tag] to get an education. I knew I wanted to cook, but I wanted an education first. From Evergreen I moved to Florida where I was a sous-chef at a high-end country club. It was my first taste of fine dining. My responsibilities there ranged from breakfast cook to banquets to running the evening dining room kitchen. There were weeks where I would get there at 5:30 in the morning to set up breakfast cook breakfast and lunch, then run upstairs to prep dinner banquets, then go back downstairs to put out dinner service for 100 people, taking a small break in between to put out a banquet for 250 people back upstairs. After a year of doing this, working under three different executive chefs, I decided to go to culinary school so that I didn’t get stuck in country club fare.

I applied to the CIA in [tag]Hyde Park[/tag] and started there in October of 2000. I loved it there. I went to class from 5 am till 4 pm, and then worked at the on-campus bar during the night my first year and [tag]Hobbnobin Pub[/tag] across the street my second year, running their kitchen. For my externship I went to [tag]Wellsley, MA[/tag], and worked at Blue Ginger with Ming Tsai. The Executive sous chef at the time was Tom Berry. It was a great experience. I spent most of my day doing prep, and then spent an the last couple hours of my day on the line helping where I could.

After culinary school I went to work in Napa Valley for Jan Birnbaum at his restaurant Catahoula. Jan was a favorite chef of mine that I had met at his other restaurant, Sazerac, in [tag]Seattle[/tag]. Jan had spent his formative years working with Paul Prudhomme in New Orleans. Jan quickly took me under his wing and become a strong mentor for me. His food, high end comfort food, was right up my alley. There we took southern classic cuisine and put a fine dining spin on it. His food was all about love. From signature dishes of Pork [tag]porterhouse[/tag] with pickled cabbage [tag]red eye gravy[/tag] and soft sexy grits to the ever popular crispy catfish with Mardi Gras slaw and a spicy lemon butter sauce, the flavors never stopped. I was the sous chef at [tag]Catahoula[/tag] working under chef de cuisine [tag]Chris Aken[/tag].

When Catahoula closed in 2003, Chris and I were asked to become part of a new restaurant in the same space called [tag]Stomp[/tag], like crushing grapes. The owner Robert Simon had another restaurant in [tag]Pasadena, CA[/tag], called [tag]Bistro 45[/tag]. Chris and I got the opportunity to run the restaurant, both front and back of the house. We had full menu control and Chris got to show off his food. We did things like lamb chops with a [tag]black pepper waffle cone[/tag] filled with fresh spring vegetables and a [tag]port fig sauce[/tag] or [tag]scallops[/tag] with an [tag]apricot crepe lasagna[/tag] and [tag]apricot reduction[/tag].

Before I left we were starting to do some very cool food based on the types of things that are doing at El Bulli in Spain and Clio in Boston, MA. We had a 25 course tasting menu that began with a golden egg, a [tag]quail egg[/tag] wrapped in a [tag]caramelized[/tag] inverted sugar shell, and ending with [tag]blue cheese cotton candy[/tag] accompanied by honey comb crisps.

After getting married in October 2006, with Chris as my best man, I moved to [tag]Brimfield, MA[/tag], and got a job in Boston at Spire Restaurant as interim [[Chef]]. My job there was to hold down the fort for six months until the restaurant could be re-concepted with [tag]Ken Oringer[/tag] from Clio as the Chef. It is now called “KO Prime“. While there, I got to help run it, with the help of two other sous chefs; a very popular upscale [tag]fine dining[/tag] restaurant. By the end of Spire, I had helped reshape the kitchen staff and policies and also updated most of the menu. I was asked to stay on with Chef Ken and Chef de Cuisine [tag]Jamie Bissonette[/tag], from Eastern Standard, but declined to open my [tag]smokehouse[/tag] and be closer to my wife Marni and soon-to-be daughter Lilli.

What was it like working for [tag]Ming Tsai[/tag]?

At first working for Ming was a little intimidating. He would walk in, give a little nod, and rush off to the next thing he had to do. It didn’t last long though. Pretty soon after I started, so did football season. We would all meet up at a field in Wellsley,MA, and play two hand touch and then Chef would take us out for wings and beer. When I started, I was deemed the “[tag]Kitchen Bitch[/tag]“. The sous chefs would change the menus and come up with these lists for me that felt like I would never get through them in a week, let alone every day. I plugged away at them everyday, never really seeing sunlight until they were done. I remember I cut my hand one day on the slicer and needed to see the doctor. The exec sous chef took over my list that day and found a whole new respect for me. He only got through about a quarter of it. When I left, they actually brought in two externs to cover what I had done solo.

It was good working for Ming. I got to work with him one-on-one a handful of times, either putting out a benefit dinner (just the two of us from the prep kitchen), to working on a test recipe he would hand me for his bottled products.

I was working for him during 9/11 when he had gotten stuck in [tag]Fiji[/tag], where he had been filming one of his [tag]food network[/tag] shows. I remember listening to him on the speaker phone and the concern in his voice for us as he told us how and what he wanted to do with the restaurant on the days following the attack.

That was the week he quit the food network.

It took Ming two weeks to be able to get home from Fiji, finally flying into Canada and renting a car to drive back to Boston. The week he got back, he was supposed to go to [tag]New York[/tag] to film East meets West for two weeks. He told them he needed to be with his family and restaurant and that these were more important. In the end, he had to leave the Food Network to be able to stay with his family.

I have a lot of respect for his values and the way he does business. If he couldn’t be at the restaurant every night he would call or his wife would stop by. His staff has been with him almost since the beginning. There is very little turnover there, with the exception of the line cooks who move on to learn more somewhere else.

How is it that you decided to move from the fine dining restaurant world to the sole proprietorship of your BBQ business? (how did you get the idea? Were you always into BBQ?)

I have been cooking fine dining in different restaurants for different chefs for the past 12 years. I enjoy this kind of food on occasion, when I go out to eat. Most of the time, I want something that isn’t going to satisfy just my eyes and mouth, I want something that will satisfy my [tag]soul[/tag].

I want there to be love in the food.

I try to cook my BBQ the way you think BBQ should taste. When you think about a [tag]pork rib[/tag], in your mind it is tender, succulent, ready to fall off the bone with a little smoke and glazed with a flavorful, spiced, sweet sauce. You want to lick your fingers – no need for a napkin. You want to dip the bone into the drippings that are left and then suck it dry. That’s the way I try to cook. I have always been the guy at gatherings that slowly walks over to the person manning the grill and works his way into taking over. No matter where I have cooked, I have always been the guy at the backyard party manning the grill. But BBQ isn’t the same as grilling.

BBQ takes time.

It is a process. Smoke is involved and wood is involved. BBQ, unlike grilling, happens by way of indirect heat at temperatures of 140° to 225°.

I got started doing real BBQ a couple of years ago when I was living in Napa Valley. I bought a little Charbroil Smoker at [tag]Home Depot[/tag] and started to experiment for my roommates and friends. When I first moved back to Brimfield, my parents and their friends put the idea in my head to do something at the Brimfield Antique Show. Over then next couple months, I started to formulate ideas of how I would bring it all together. I started searching the internet for concession trailers and smokers. I found some stuff that I liked and then started to look into how I would ever afford to buy a [tag]trailer[/tag] and [tag]smoker[/tag] that cost upwards of $35,000.

In discussing this with family and friends, I started to get offers of what can I do to help. I also know this guy who welds. Pretty soon, I was ordering trailer parts and pieces of steel. My first order arrived as a set of axles and tires in February and I slowly watched as it started to come together. Every morning, as I drove off to Boston to go to work, I would look at the progress that was being made.

Visit the gallery of photos which shows how the trailer was made!

As things started to change at the restaurant and when I found out my wife was pregnant, my priorities also started to change. I felt I had a decent resume and didn’t want to go back to being just another sous chef. It was time for me to run the show. With the trailer almost ready and the transition at the restaurant happening at just the right time, it was easy for me to walk away and start out on my own. Not really on my own, I have a lot of support from my wife parents and family friends who really made it all possible.

Building the trailer was really an amazing thing. Looking back on it, it had all the parts of a really good movie… It all started with my dad, who is a [tag]general contractor[/tag] and who was supposed to help me do most of the actual building and finish work, but he fell on a job and shattered his shoulder. A metal plate and seven pins kinda put the nix on any major building help from him although he was great moral support. After that happened it was kinda like watching a movie where a town comes together to make something happen. The last couple days were really tough. It was four days before the first Brimfield Antique Show

I had been out of work for two weeks with no income and the trailer was just a shell no inside walls, no plumbing, no floor, and minimal wiring done.

All of a sudden extra people just started showing up to lend a hand. The main person that had really been a huge help who I most everything to, Mitch Fraizier, lost his brother to cancer the morning of the day we were going to finish the trailer. That was when I really felt everyone pitch in. I couldn’t be there to help finish building because I had to cook, but about ten people, including Mitch, spent most of their day pitching in. It was rough, but after the first night of cooking, we had a little party at the trailer with ribs and [tag]bourbon[/tag] to celebrate getting it done.

How and where did you learn about “southern style” BBQ? (did you go on a que-vision-quest? Find a que-guru? Grow up with a que-dad/mom?)

Mostly I learned about BBQ by reading books, tasting food as we moved around the country, and watching competitions on TV. I have always had a decent palate and used to do all the marinades and sauces for grilling and BBQ growing up. I have plans, when time permits, to travel and explore the South, searching out the finest BBQ joints around.

Could you describe the different types of BBQ you offer? (sorts of brine, rub, aging, period of soaking, period of marination, period of smoking – don’t give any secrets away, just generalities)

I mostly do a dry style of BBQ. I start by rubbing the meat with a [tag]dry rub[/tag] that I had custom blended. Then, the meat gets placed in the smoker and sits there without being moved for up to 14 hrs. The chickens go for 3 hrs, ribs for six, pork butt – for pulled pork – is 8-10 hrs, and the beef brisket is 12-14 hrs. The pork ribs are the only thing I do
moist. When they come out of the smoker they go into a flavorful liquid I make and simmer until you come buy to eat them. The other meats don’t see anything wet, besides their own juices and love, until I sauce them when you order them.

Hows business?

It started a little slow the first two weeks. I was a little nervous that maybe I might have to go get a real job before long, but it has steadily gotten better over the last 5 weeks. Each week is better than the last and things look good. I have a lot of repeat business and people are starting to talk about me, sending their friends to come see me from neighboring towns.

Do you have many competitors in this area?

Not really. I think the closest BBQ place to me is 20-30 miles away. The cool thing about BBQ is that lovers of it will drive to get it. There was a little tragedy in the BBQ world recently when Holy Smokes in West Hatfield burned down. It was a [tag]BBQ joint[/tag] that had been built in an old church.

What made you choose this area specifically?

I moved here to be closer to my family. My parents moved to Brimfield, MA, about 8 years ago and I haven’t lived near them since high school. California also got very expensive. Since being here and getting all the help and encouragement I have from those around me, I know I made a great choice.

Do you have plans to remain in this location long? (as in winter, etc)

Eventually I would like to find a more permanent location. Somewhere where I don’t have to worry about when my water supply will freeze in the hose that brings it into my trailer. But for now, I have a good relationship with Lester, the owner of Village Green Campground, and I plan on taking a little time off this winter to enjoy my new baby, who is due to arrive [tag]Thanksgiving[/tag] Day. I am hoping to still do some catering this winter to keep myself busy and If I can keep my water supply from freezing, you’ll find me around.

Do you do any unusual BBQ items? (BBQ salt, BBQ fish, BBQ gator, BBQ quail, BBQ opossum, what ever it might be? If not, would you do them on request?

We did a [tag]moose[/tag] this past winter. It was gooood. I’ll cook just about anything. I cured and smoked a salmon this past week and may start running it as a special every now and then. For the most part, I am still getting my feet wet at this and want to make sure I am doing it right before I start to venture, but if someone asks I am game. We do have some ducks roaming around the campground.

Do you cater?

I do. I have some requests to roast some pigs and a couple of parties of chicken and ribs coming up. I am working on building another more portable smoker that would make catering a little easier. But I am available for any even you may have. With the fine dining background I can also do fine dining plated events. As I say in my brochure, “Pretty much anything your heart desires. Just ask and I will do all I can to make it right.”

Do you ship items? If so, which ones?

For right now, just my spice rub. I am going to work on getting my sauce in a bottle when I slow down going into the winter. There are a lot of regulations about shipping prepared foods that make it hard for me to do much else at the moment. We’ll see what happens down the road if and when I get a permanent home. I am also having hats, shirts, and sweatshirts made up with my logo that I will be selling and would be happy to ship.